Jun 30, 2014
Sekigahara – Japan’s Defining Samurai Battle
As you may or may not know, the Chubu area witnessed the scene of perhaps the most important and defining battle in Japan’s history. The Battle of Sekigahara, maybe best considered to western minds as Japan’s Gettysburg, took place in 1600 in the town of Sekigahara, Gifu. It was pitched between two of the greatest daimyos of the age: Ishida Mitsunari, leader of the western armies loyal to the child ruler Toyotomi Hideyori; and Tokugawa Ieyasu who would come to unite Japan under his and his family’s rule until the feudal era was dismantled by the Meiji restoration.
Today, some 400 years later, the town of Sekigahara still carries the legacy of that monumental battle in which up to 40,000 people lost their lives in a staggeringly bloodthirsty six hours. That legacy is tourism. There are many sights in the area including Sekigahara Town and History Folklore Museum, the site of the final battle itself and Higashi Kubizuka Nishi Kubizuka where the heads of the vanquished western samurai were buried under an immense tree.
You can also visit the positions of the commanding daimyos of the time from which, as you look out across the town and the fields, you can truly imagine what carnage unfolded below, at such close quarters, and what horrors the townsfolk of the sleepy rice harvesting town would have witnessed. Particularly impressive is the position of Ishida Mitsunari, where ramparts have been built to recreate with historical accuracy, how it would have looked on that fateful day.
The battle site of Sekigahara is of particular interest to hikers with a historical penchant, who can wander along four main trails (The Kessen Course, Tenkatori Course, Kogun Course, and Shizen Sansaku Course) which weave through the foothills, passing the many points of interest along the way.
While the historical accuracy of some of the locations of these points is open to debate (not least by Chris Glenn, local historian and author of upcoming book Sekigahara: The Samurai Bloodbath That Forged Japan), one place that is not such a stickler for the facts is Gifu Warland. Perhaps the most bizarre of tourist tributes, this museum of sorts recreates, using concrete mannequins, the battle that took place in the town. Grizzly scenes depicted include sword fights, the ritual suicide of the leper lord Ōtani Yoshitsugu, as well as decapitated heads being carried to and displayed at naming ceremonies. Ignore the fact that some of the daimyos present had passed on some fifteen years before the battle took place, and you can spend an interesting, yet slightly creepy, time wandering amongst the battle scene as the tune “Ah, the decisive battle of Sekigahara” plays on an eerie, continuous loop.
Sekigahara is an easy day trip from Nagoya. A JR train on the Tokaido main line will get you there in one hour. However, if you wish to visit all points of interest and you don’t have the legs for a hike, it may be advisable to take the 45 minute car journey and drive from point to point. Also, none of the battle sites, the Sekigahara Town and History Folklore Museum, nor Gifu Warland exhibits are marked in English, so it may be a good idea to bring a Japanese friend if you feel language may be a problem.
Image by Mark Guthrie
Jun 27, 2014
What to do if You Lose Your Residence Card
When living in a foreign country, there are many exciting and wonderful things to see and do. However, not knowing the local language can sometimes, initially at least, make ordinary and commonplace tasks appear somewhat daunting. One of these such things is dealing with official documentation and bureaucracy, particularly when doing so for the first time without any guidance.
So, when I foolishly lost my wallet on a sightseeing tour of Tokyo, I was less concerned by the loss of cash therein than I was of the idea of going about getting my official documentation back, particularly my residence card. As it turns out, I needn’t have been so worried.
The first thing I did was to head to the nearest koban (police box) to explain the situation. This worried me at first as my Japanese is barely passable and I was unsure how I could explain the situation. Luckily I remembered the word for wallet, saifu and mimed it disappearing, however if I had been paying more attention in my Japanese lessons I would have said Saifu wo otoshite, Zairyū kādo wo nakunarimashita. (I have lost my wallet and my Residence Card). Fortunately the police officer knew what he had to do. Using a multi-lingual form he took down my details. Then he took out a book with readily printed explanations of situations in various languages that helped me (after pointing out that although the characters look alike, I required the English section rather than the Portuguese) understand what would happen next
He then gave me a sheet with a crime report number. This was extremely important, the book explained, for without that I would be unable to have my card reissued. He also explained that it was important for me to carry my passport at all times, for if I were stopped without it after a period of 14 days without requesting a new card, officially I could be fined up to 200,000 JPY, though through gestures and facial expressions he made it clear that this was unlikely.
Once I returned to Nagoya, my next step was to go to the Nagoya Regional Immigration Bureau*. This can be found less than two minutes’ walk (turn left out of the exit and it is well signposted on your left) from Nagoya Keibajomae station, a thirteen minute ride from Nagoya station on the Aonami line. Upon arrival I found the information centre on the first floor where I explained my situation. The centre’s staff speak a variety of languages, but if you are unfortunate enough to come across a staff member who struggles with English you can say Zairyū kādo wo atarashiku tsukuremasu ka. (I need a new residence card). I was given an easy to complete form and directed upstairs to the main immigration centre.
It is important to be aware that your application form must be accompanied by a recent photograph. Photo booths can be found in many places of course, and you will even pass some on the street on your way there, however I used one of the booths in the convenience store actually inside the immigration centre on the second floor as, for 700JPY, it had specific settings for ID photos and I could be sure that there would be no purikura-style enhancements. You may laugh, but it has happened before.
After cutting out my photo (scissors are provided in the conbini) I entered the immigration office and took a ticket at desk number 10. When my number was called I handed over my application, photo, police crime report and my passport and, after a mere 20 minute wait I had a shiny new gaijin card. An unexpectedly painless experience altogether.
So, all in all, a happy ending, particularly as, two weeks later, my wallet was returned to me in one piece. Japanese honesty, definitely the best thing about the country.
*It should be noted that it may be possible to have your card reissued at your ward office; however I have heard from a few people that they have encountered difficulty with either long waits, translation problems or even flat out refusal, being told that they have to go to the immigration centre. It really is the luck of the draw.
Jun 24, 2014
Fishy Business – Yanagibashi Chuo Ichiba Fish Market in Nagoya
Ask a Japanese of which part of their culture they are most proud and nine times out of then they will tell you that it is their food, and by food they are most likely talking fish. Japan consumes six per cent of the world’s fish harvest and imports more seafood than any other nation, and you can see it exquisitely served up in restaurants up and down the country. The beauty of Japanese fish is its freshness, but if you want really fresh fish, it’s best to get it from the source. And no, we aren’t recommending requisitioning a trawler, but instead heading to a fish market right in the heart of Nagoya.
Lying just 5 minutes walk from Meieki, Yanagibashi Chuo Ichiba fish market, has been peddling its wares to businesses of all sorts around the Tokai region since 1910, though it has been claimed that some stalls date further back into the Edo era.
Behind only Tokyo’s famous Tsukiji fish market in size, there are over 400 shops and stalls selling all sorts of seafood products. And when we say ‘all sorts’, if you know anything about Japanese cuisine, you’ll know we mean all sorts. The variety on offer is so extensive that you can get pretty much anything fishy your heart desires. Brought in from the fishing areas of Chita Peninsula, Mikawa Bay, and Ise Bay, from tuna to octopus, to urchins and even top grade whale meat; if you find it in the sea, you’re likely to find it here.
The primary purpose of Yanagibashi fish market is to supply goods to hotels and restaurants of the area. However you shouldn’t let the fact that your surname is neither Hilton nor Marriot put you off for, as well as operating as a wholesalers, it also caters to individuals, predominantly housewives looking for the freshest of cuts to put in their hubby’s bento box.
One concern about shopping amongst this vast array of weird and wonderful seafood, is knowing one thing from another. Could you tell your squid from your octopus? Can you tell your crayfish from your giant prawn? Well, if you happen to not be particularly versed in the inhabitants of the world under the sea fear not. Every Friday and Saturday there is a tour that you can take around the market that will show you exactly what’s what. The guide of the tour is Mr Ando, the president of the market’s Marunaka Shokuhin Center and local celebrity, and lasts for two hours. On the tour you will see the ins and outs of the market, how the fish is prepared, displayed and sold, receive advice on how to keep foods in good condition and see the professional ways of cooking.
The tour costs 1000 JPY and is unfortunately only held in Japanese, but even if you do not speak the language, it is still an interesting way to spend a morning and you will see all sorts of inside aspects that you might not otherwise see on your own.
Yanagibashi Chuo Ichiba fish market is open for business between 4 and 10 am, though it at its most lively between 6 and 8. It is closed Sundays, holidays, and some Wednesdays. The tour starts in the lobby of the Castle Plaza Hotel from 8:20 (Tel: 052-582-2121); and bookings are taken up to 4pm the day before.
Website: www.marunaka-center.co.jp
Address: 4-15-2 Meieki Nakamura-ku Nagoya-city
Image from - http://www.nic-nagoya.or.jp/en/e/archives/664 - modified
Jun 23, 2014
Sending a Letter in Japan and Japanese Addresses
Though it rarely comes up with the prevalence of email now-a-days, you sometimes need to mail a letter. This is what you need to know if you want to do it in Japan.
- A standard letter costs 82 yen to mail. You can buy stamps at the post office or convenience store
- You can write the address in Japanese or English, but the style is different for each.
- Receiver’s name goes on the front, senders is written on the back of the envelope; generally in the lower right hand corner.
Japanese style is like this, and the last item is the recipient’s name
〒460-0002 愛知県 名古屋市中区丸の内3-17-6 ナカトウ丸の内ビル4階
- 〒 – This symbol precedes the postal code.
- 460-0002 – This is the seven digit postal code.
- 愛知県 – This is the prefecture. The last kanji means prefecture, the remainder is the name. In this case it is Aichi Ken
- 名古屋市 – This is for the city. In this case, it is Nagoya City. The last kanji means city.
- 中区 – This is the ward , village, or area: In this case, it is Naka Ku.
- 丸の内 – This is the city district. In this case, Marunochi.
- 3-17-6 – These are the specific location within the above areas.
- 3 – is the cho, defining your location within the neighborhood
- 17 – is the ban, further defining your position on the street
- 6 – has no name, it is exact location of your house or building.
English style is like this. Instead of bigger to smaller, it goes smaller to bigger, starting with the recipient’s name.
4F Nakato Marunouchi Bldg. 3-17-6 Marunouchi, Naka-ku Nagoya 460-0002 Japan
Jun 19, 2014
Hiking, Walking and Biking Nagano: Nagano City
Mystical Forests, Ninja Adventures, WWII Tunnels and Mountains Galore
Many Japanese associate Nagano City with the iconic Zenkoji Temple, home to the oldest Buddha image in Japan. For non-Japanese, this temple is certainly worth a visit, to appreciate its soaring architecture, and grope around in its pitch-black underground tunnel where you may be lucky enough to touch the key of enlightenment. Another common piece of knowledge is that Nagano City was the main site of the 1998 Winter Olympics, and the major venues are still in use today.
However, Nagano City has a number of fascinating but lesser-known attractions which make the city a great place for a two or three day break.
1. The Mystical Togakushi Highlands (complete with Ninja Adventure Park!)
About one hour north of downtown Nagano City by car, the Togakushi Highlands offer a range of activities for all the family. You can take a walk in the forest to see the beautiful reflections in Kagami Pond and the giant cedar trees along the path to Okusha Shrine (pictured above). The kids will love testing their skills at the Ninja Adventure Park.
2. Go Deep Underground at the Mt Zou WWII Tunnels
As WWII was coming to a climax, the Japanese government and military started making contingency plans in case there was an invasion of Honshu Island. One major part of these plans involved moving key military departments, the government, and the Imperial Family to the safety of a series of tunnels to be built in the hills of Matsushiro, in what is now the south of Nagano City. Although the tunnels were never completed or occupied by their intended residents, some of the tunnels still remain and are open to the public. You can walk hundreds of meters through the tunnels under Mt Zou for free.
It is a moving and for some even a spooky experience. Outside the tunnels is a memorial to all the Japanese and foreign laborers who died constructing the tunnels. Matsushiro also has a very well-preserved historical precinct. Places worth visiting include the Bunbu School for Military Arts, the Sanada Treasures Museum, and the former castle site, which has a pretty garden replete with cherry trees.
3. View the Spectacular Snow-Capped Northern Alps
To the west of Nagano City lie Japan’s Northern Alps, a long range of mountains with many peaks approaching 3,000m in height. Snow remains on these peaks well into summer. There is a number of great vantage points in Nagano City from which to view this impressive range. One which requires only a little walking is the former site of Hagino Castle, near Mt Jinbadaira in the west of the city. A more strenuous climb up Mt Iizuna also provides fabulous views of the Alps. Another great spot is Mt Kimyo, near Matsushiro, which also affords great vistas across the Zenkoji Plain on which downtown Nagano City lies.
If you have a bit more time, there are another couple of fun things to do:
- Go on the pilgrim’s walk (or ride) from Nagano Station to the iconic Zenkoji Temple, find the 18 marker stones (chou ishi) and visit the Seven Lucky Gods
- Take an epic bike ride from Nagano Station to the Kawanakajima Historical Battlefield, and then along the Chikuma Bikeway all the way to Ueda Castle Park.
Details about all of these sites and courses, and many others, can be found in the newly-released book
“Hiking, Walking and Biking Nagano: 16 Tours in Nagano City”
Available at:
- The CreateSpace Store (Paperback USD 14.95)
- Amazon.com (Paperback USD 14.95, Kindle USD 2.99);
- Smashwords.com (multiple Ebook formats USD 3.99. Formats include Apple iBookstore, Sony, Kobo, Barnes and Noble, Aldiko, .pdf, etc)
About the Author
Peter Ninnes is an educational consultant and travel writer based in Chikuma City, Nagano. His books include “Nagano Onsen Guide: The Top 100 Day-Use Hot Springs” and the other books in the “Hiking, Walking and Biking Nagano” series, covering Karuizawa Town, Ueda City and Chikuma City.
Jun 16, 2014
Sushi Dokoro Shiki in Tokyo’s Ginza District
Sushi Dokoro Shiki – すし処 志喜 in Tokyo’s Ginza District is a surprisingly good and affordable treasure. They specialize in “course menu” sushi set at JPY 10,500 , or you can order off the menu; which is quite reasonable for being located in Ginza.
The set menu selections are extremely fresh and well chosen, and though the staff does not speak any English, they are quite friendly and kind. The shop is small, seating 15 comfortably between counter and table seats, but the decor is very comfortable and calming.
One thing I learned talking with the the sushi “master” was how fresh traditional sushi is. Surprisingly, “fresh” is not always ideal for sushi, and that is “what Edo Sushi is all about.” He went on to explain how different kinds of fish need different amounts of time for the maximum flavor to come out; some is eaten quite fresh, while other kinds might not peak until 10 days – 2 weeks later.
During the Edo period there were no modern refrigeration options, and the masters of Edo sushi had to find ways to keep fish in good condition, and prepare its maximum potential. That is why much of the sushi you will sample at this restaurant uses different types of vinegar, salts and other sauces in preparation.
I would also recommend that you ask the master choose your sake for you; a different sake for each segment of the meal. 10,000 yen per person before drinks seems a little expensive, but it is a pretty good deal for this kind of experience, and if there is anything you don’t like, the sushi master will prepare things around your tastes.
Sushi Dokoro Shiki – すし処 志喜
- 03-6228-7029
- Mon – Sat: 5:00 pm – 11:00 pm
- 4-minute walk from Ginza Subway Station
- 2-minute walk from Higashi Ginza Station
- 104-0061 Tokyo, Chūō, Ginza, 4 Chome−8−13 銀座蟹睦会館ビル3rd Floor (Google Maps Link)
Jun 12, 2014
Golfing in and around Tokyo
Being packed, seemingly shoulder-to-shoulder, with people you could be forgiven for thinking that Tokyo is not the best place to, to paraphrase Mark Twain, spoil a good walk. However, there are plenty of excellent golfing areas around the capital.
Of course there are many roof-top driving ranges, hammering balls into nets mere feet away, but there are also a huge range of top quality, well, ranges on which to work on your handicap just outside the city.
Lakewood Golf Club
Surrounded by Mountains Fuji, Hakone and the Tanazawa mountain range, this prestigious club is considered a course not only for leisure, but also for business. So much so that the club claims that very few Japanese executives over the age of fifty have not trodden this 36 hole course. Cut from the mountainous forest by renowned golf course architect Theodore G. Robinson, Lakewood Golf Club boasts fine cuisine and gracious hospitality.
Distance from Tokyo: 75km
Website: www.lake-wood.co.jp/e/lgc/index.html
Sakawa Royal Golf Club
Sakawa Royal Golf Club has around 3000 members, however, if you are unfortunate enough not to be a member of this course that has Mt Fuji views from nearly every hole, prices have recently been lowered, and they allow non-members on weekdays. For golfers seeking a challenge there are four holes with water, 18 sand traps and a dogleg. There is also a practice putting area, night-lights, a minimum of one English speaking staff member on duty at any one time and they are open all year round.
Distance from Tokyo: 89km
Website: www.riversakawa-gc.jp
Windsor Park Golf and Country Club
If weekdays are busy and you don’t play often enough to warrant a membership, then Windsor Park Golf Club is ideal. While still having the facilities of a membership club, such as a putting green, driving range, clubhouse as well as a business centre and overnight accommodation, it is a member-free club and thus operates an open access policy. Also, as well as providing playing space for individuals and groups, they will also close the club to guarantee exclusive use for groups of 120 or more.
Distance from Tokyo: 127km
Website: www.wpgcc.com
Gotemba Golf Club
Gotemba is one of Japan’s most famous retreat areas, and this hillside golf club offers beautiful views of Mt Fuji. A little over an hour outside of Tokyo, another advantage of Gotemba Golf Club is that club rental and all round lessons are available in English. A free shuttle bus from JR Gotemba station is also provided, meaning it is easily accessible for those without personal transportation.
Distance from Tokyo: 108km
Website: www.gotembagolf.com
Jinji Golf School
For those of you who have never swung a club in anger, but want to give it a try, the world of the clubhouse can seem pretty intimidating. However Jinji Golf School offers lessons in a fun and relaxed environment, with lessons tailor-made to suit your own specific needs. They also have English-speaking coaches, so you don’t have to worry about brushing up on your Japanese before brushing up on your game.
Distance from Tokyo: 11km (Jingu Mae golf range) 13km (Meguro golf range)
Website: www.jinjigolf.com
Tokyo American Club 19th Hole
But perhaps the great outdoors isn’t your thing. Well, the 19th Hole at Tokyo American Club has two top of the line golf simulators with images of the world’s top courses. Access is for members, but don’t worry if you are not from the USA, as their membership includes over fifty nationalities. Use of the simulators costs JPY 2,500 per hour and can be booked online for up to two hours. Members are free to bring their own clubs or they can be provided.
Distance from Tokyo: 5km
Website: www.tokyoamericanclub.org/health-and-recreation/golf.html
Distances from Tokyo taken from Tokyo train station with private transport using Google maps.
The above details are for information only and are not to be seen as endorsements.
Photo: Wikimedia - "Golfer Swing" by Lilrizz - (CC0 1.0) - modified
Jun 12, 2014
10 Things You Shouldn’t do with Chopsticks in Japan
No idea where I learned how to use them, but somehow I have become quite adept at manipulating these little sticks. I was once asked to eat in front of an entire kindergarten classroom filled with children so they could watch how I did it. “See, if he can do it this well so can you!” was essentially how the lesson went. Mortifying really, but at least it was in the service of children?
Anyway, on your journey to dining excellence there are a few rules to keep in mind when eating with “ohashi” in Japan.
10 things that you shouldn’t do with chopsticks
- Rub them together
- Stab them into food, or stick them into a bowl of rice
- Split the disposable chopsticks vertically
- Play drums with them
- Point to people or objects
- Drag bowls or plates with them
- Pass food to another person’s chopsticks directly
- Wave them around while talking
- Dig around in food with them
- Stir your “chuhai” with them
More info – “Chopstick Crimes” from Japanzine
Light Sabre Chopsticks! Japan has EVERYTHING!
How to Use Chopsticks
If you do not know how to use chopsticks and want a quick lesson I recommend this guide on eHow .
“Practice makes perfect when it comes to using chopsticks. It may look complicated but the key is that the bottom chopstick remains still while the upper chopstick moves to grasp the food. Here are a few steps to eating with chopsticks in no time.”
Have any chopstick stories to share? Let us know by commenting here, or on our FB page!
Jun 10, 2014
Japanese Recipes in English
Cookpad
This app features the best Japanese recipes from the largest cooking community in Japan. Long popular in its native Japanese language, Cookpad is now offering many of its recipes on a new English version of its website. Currently the site provides translations of 4,500 recipes, a pittance compared to the Japanese language version, which boasts 1.5 million recipes created by its 20 million users since the site was created in 1997.
Just One Cookbook
Just One Cookbook is a blog run by Namiko “Nami” Chen, an author/cook/photographer behind the actual book, “Just One Cookbook.” While it does not have the extensive collection of millions of recipes, it does offer recipes with a personal touch. There are a great many Japanese recipes on offer, many of them “30 minutes or less recipes.”
The blog recomends you start by browsing the Recipe Index to see what kind of food and recipes are on offer.
Bento.com
Bento.com / Tokyo Food Page is a complete guide to Japanese cuisine and eating in Japan. It offers a great collection of recipes, tours of Japanese markets, and tips on where to eat in various cities in Japan. While the restruant and bar listings are sort of recent, the recipe section has been around for a while, and featured here many times in the form of recipe recommendations.
You can find a collection of recipes featured here on Japan Info Swap here.
