Throughout Asia, noodles are considered one of the staple foods. This is particularly true in Japan, where there are numerous types of ‘men’ [noodle] dishes that you can enjoy. Here in Aichi, the local delicacy is kishimen, a flat udon noodle that has more than a passing appearance to tagliatelle pasta, which means that in and around Nagoya, there are a load of great places to ‘go native’ and try it out for yourself.
With its ideal noodle-making climate and the Kiso River’s clear waters, Nagoya is famed for its superlative noodle. Chief amongst this is kishimen as, with its broad shape, it is ideal for catching the thick, full-flavored soup beloved of Nagoyans.
There is some debate as to where the name ‘kishimen’ comes from. In kanji script, it is written ‘go stone noodle,’ perhaps signifying that the name derives from its appearance being similar to the flat, stone pieces used in the chess-like game of Go. However, another story has it that the name honors a chef who was particularly renowned for his noodles, and as he came from an area called Kishi, thus in time Kishu-men became kishimen. And yet another legend states that the dish was often served for a Nagoya lord who enjoyed noodles with pheasant, or ‘kiji’ in Japanese, and thus kijimen was the obvious name.
Whatever the origin, when in Nagoya, you really must give kishimen a try. Here are a few places to check out.
Surely there can be little more authentic than enjoying local food at a famous Nagoya landmark, and you can find Miya Kishimen on the grounds of Atsuta Jingu, one of Japan’s three most important shrines. It’s a ‘blink, and you’ll miss it’ affair, but eagle-eyed diners will be rewarded with numerous different types of kishimen, and fortunately, there is a picture menu, which means that if your language skills aren’t up to it, you can point.
Highly recommended is the Tenoroshi Kishimen, cold noodles served in a dashi and soy sauce broth topped with grated radish, seaweed, and a mix of sweet potato and prawn tempura.
Where: 2 Chome-5-24 Sawakami, Atsuta Ward, Nagoya (map)
Website: miyakishimen.co.jp
A kishimen store that combines a sense of Nagoya-ness with convenience is Ekikama Kishimen, located within/right next to JR Nagoya Station. Here you can choose your favored broth – either soy sauce, salt, or red miso – and from there, you can pick your toppings.
The Nagoya Cochin chicken is one of the most popular and combines red miso with a chili broad bean paste, perfectly accompanying the strong flavors for which Nagoya is famous.
Where: 1-1-4 Meieki, Nakamura-Ku Nagoya Chuodori, Nagoya (map)
Website: jrt-food-service.co.jp
In the ESCA shopping arcade below Nagoya’s Station, you can find numerous restaurants specializing in Nagoya cuisine. Chief amongst these is Yoshidamen, a chain making its own original noodles with just flour and salt – no additives – since 1890.
The dashi broth is made with five different types of fish, and their noodles have an appreciably stronger texture than what you might find elsewhere. A Nagoya institution for a Nagoya dish.
Where: Nagoya, Nakamura Ward, Tsubakicho, 6−9 ESCA Underground Shopping Center (map)
Website: yoshidamen.co.jp
Near neighbors to Yoshidamen in ESCA is Kishimen-tei, a chain with a 90-year history, and their specialty Zaru Kishimen is not to be missed.
With this dish, you should take your first bite with the noodles alone to appreciate their texture combining with the broth, and then continue with the toppings of your choice. In the summer, they even have a kishimen dish served on shaved ice, which is ideal for recovering from the stifling Aichi humidity.
Where: 6-9 Tsubakicho, Nakamura Ward, Nagoya (map)
Website: kishimentei.co.jp
Image: By Bong Grit via flickr.com [CC BY 2.0]
Image: By inazakira via flickr.com [CC BY 2.0]
Image: By lameken5050 via flickr.com [CC BY 2.0]
Image: By Yasutaka SHINDOH via flickr.com [CC BY 2.0]
Image: via https://www.kishimentei.co.jp/menu/
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