Onsen In and Around Hiroshima

Nov 27, 2018

Onsen In and Around Hiroshima

Hot springs (or onsen) are a great idea any time of year, but there’s something about being outside and up to your chin in hot water that just really appeals in the depths of winter. Fortunately, you don’t need to book a room at one of the famous Kyushu hot springs towns — which are overrun with tourists anyway. There are plenty of choices for a spontaneous hot springs getaway right here in Hiroshima.

Even if you’re a complete novice, you doubtless know that there’s more to taking an onsen bath than just stripping down and entering the tub with a flawlessly-executed back somersault. But, if you want more in the way of guidance, you can find a good rundown of basic etiquette here.

Also, in this part of Japan, many (but by no means all) natural hot springs contain trace amounts of radon. Locals insist that the stuff is not only harmless but also beneficial. The presence of the element is even a selling point for these onsen. In their defense, at least one study of Misasa in Tottori Prefecture — where radon levels are three times as high as elsewhere — found significantly fewer cancer fatalities over a 17-year period than in control areas. The town even hosts an annual Marie Curie festival. But, I leave it up to you to make your own decisions.

Three of the onsen listed below — Miyahama, Yunoyama, and Yuki Lodge — are weak radon-style hot springs.

Miyahama Hot Spring

A popular onsen, Miyahama Hot Spring is in Hatsukaichi city, only a 15-minute drive from the Miyajimaguchi ferry terminal. There are four inns, including Sekitei, which is well known for its garden. Many of the baths have framed views of Miyajima and the Seto Inland Sea. Come for the bath and stay for the food — Sekitei and Hatago Sakura (another inn) compete to provide the best cuisine. Of course, you’re free to simply bathe as well, but this onsen makes for an easy (albeit somewhat pricey) overnight getaway from downtown Hiroshima.

Address: Miyahama Onsen, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima 739-0454
Access: 8-minute drive from the Ono Interchange on the Hiroshima-Iwakuni Road. Signs are clear.
Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. every day
Admission: Each of the inns has its own pricing. Typical costs are 800 yen for adults and 400 yen for children aged 12 and under.
Telephone: 082-930-3533
Web site: http://miyahamaonsen.com/

Ujina Natural Hot Spring Honoyu

At Ujina Natural Hot Spring Honoyu, you’ll find a variety of baths, ranging from traditional onsen to cold pools, water seats, jet baths, and even an electric bath. Some are indoors, others outdoors. There’s also a large sauna. Shampoo, conditioner, and body wash are all provided, but you should bring your own towel (or pay extra to rent one).

Note that this onsen requires a strict adherence to etiquette, which means totally nude bathing and no tattoos. After you’ve finished your soak, head to the onsite restaurant to complete your experience!

Address: 3-4-34 Ujinahigashi, Minami Ward, Hiroshima 734-0003
Access: Take streetcar number 5 to Ujina 2-chome. From here, it’s a 10-minute walk to the onsen.
Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. (last entry 10:00 p.m.)
Admission: 880 yen per person.
Telephone: 082-252-1126

Yunoyama Onsen

Apparently discovered almost 12 centuries ago, Yunoyama Onsen was used by the Asano clan — lords of Hiroshima during the Edo period. It is a designated Significant Intangible Folk Cultural Asset of Japan. With the picturesque Yuyamamyo Shrine set on a hill above the springs, it’s certainly a pleasant place to take a hot bath. A special feature here is the ‘Utase yu’ bath, where cooled water pours from a height onto bathers, providing an invigorating massage.

Address: 471 Wada, Yuki-cho, Saeki-ku, Hiroshima City, Hiroshima 738-0601
Access: About 25 minutes from the Itsukaichi Interchange and Hatsukaichi Interchange, via prefectural Route 41 off the Sanyo Expressway.
Hours: Public bathing 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. (last entry 7:30 p.m.)
Admission: Adults 450 yen, children 150 yen.
Telephone: 082-504-2243
Web site: https://dive-hiroshima.com/en/explore/1167/

Yuki Onsen Lodge

Close to Yunoyama are the several inns of Yuki Onsen. You’ll find the same kind of water here as well as mountain scenery and a variety of dining options. Most day visitors head straight for the large Yuki Lodge, which is best equipped to accommodate guests who don’t intend to stay overnight. If there’s no snow on the ground — and there shouldn’t be this close to the coast — the area offers some excellent hiking or just a chance to stroll past the houses backed along the little Minochigawa River.

Address: 2563-1 Oaza Tada, Yuki-cho, Saeki-ku, Hiroshima City, Hiroshima 738-0721
Access: Follow the same route you would for Yunoyama and follow signs for Yuki Lodge.
Hours: From June to September, 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. (last entry at 8:30 p.m.). From October to May, 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. (last entry at 7:30 p.m.).
Admission: Adults 750 yen for single entry, 1,000 yen for an1 all-day ticket. Children 300 yen single entry, 500 yen for an all-day ticket.
Telephone: 082-985-0111
Web site: https://yuki-lodge.jp/

Megahira Hot Spring Ski Resort

We’re moving deeper into the mountains now. In case you haven’t had enough skiing yet at any of the three resorts we profiled in this month’s ski/snowboarding piece, look into taking a day trip to Megahira. As well as being an onsen, it’s the closest ski resort from downtown Hiroshima. Although it has less to offer as a ski resort than some of the others, it’s still fun — with a snowboard park and nearly 6 kilometers of ski runs.

As an onsen destination, you might choose Megahira due to the lack of radon. Previously, this was also a popular choice for the mixed-sex onsen where patrons wore swimsuits, but this bath has since been closed. There are now just sex-segregated baths where you go as God made you. On the women’s side, there’s even a bath made from the wood of a 45,000-year-old tree brought from New Zealand. That’s not a chance you get every day!

Address: 4291 Yoshiwa, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima 738-0301
Access: By car, about 2 kilometers from Yoshiwa Interchange off the Chugoku Expressway. Follow the signs.
Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m., Closed Mondays.
Admission: Adults 700 yen, children (ages 6 to 12) 350 yen, toddlers (ages 3 to 5) 150 yen.
Telephone: 082-940-3000
Web site: http://www.megahira.co.jp/pc/spa.html

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