Monthly Archive July 2017

Jul 31, 2017

World Beer Summit in Nagoya

With all that is happening in the world today I think we can all agree that a summit is needed.  A beer summit, perhaps with “beers from around the world + the best music = so happy” as its theme.  If such a thing were possible it seems likely we could sort these issues post haste, and luckily, such a beast does exist, right here in Nagoya, as “World Beer Summit” kicks off August with a “glug glug!”

Join most of Nagoya to enjoy outdoor music featuring performances by a variety of artists on stage, and more importantly, the chance to sample beers from the Czech Republic, America, Japan, Belgium, Germany, Taiwan, England, Scotland, France, Denmark and Italy.  Most fun, you also get to vote for the best beer prize, and as everyone knows voting is your social responsibility; soooo a little pressure there.

World Beer Summit in Nagoya

August  4th to 14th , 2017
Hisaya Hiroba in Hisaya Odori Park
Free; charges apply for food and drinks (Japanese)

ByMark Guthrie
Jul 31, 2017

Really Seeing The Sights: Observation Decks Around Nagoya

Whether you love or loathe the hustle and bustle of the big city, there are no two ways about it: Nagoya is an amazing place. There is so much going on, and so much to take in. It is a mass of contradictions and a striking hodge-podge of contrasting styles, of the traditional and the futuristic.

There is perhaps no better way to take all of that in, than from the air. All around the city there are high-rise buildings that you can access, and from their observation decks you can take it all in.

Midland Square

At 247m (810ft) Midland Square is the tallest building in Aichi prefecture and the 7th tallest in Japan. Between the 42nd and 46th floors is the Sky Promenade, an open air observation deck some 220m from the ground. Feel the wind whistle around you (on days when the weather allows it) as you get a near 360 degree of the city, taking in sights such as the JR Central Towers, Nagoya Castle and Nagoya Port. Depending on the season it is open in the evenings until 21:00 (January and February), 22:00 (March to June and October to December) and 23:00 (July to September) and from 7pm, every half an hour a fine mist is sprayed which refracts the cityscape’s lights offering an enchanting display

Nagoya TV Tower

Closely resembling the Eiffel Tower, Nagoya TV Tower is the oldest of its kind in Japan. At 180 meters high the tower is one of Nagoya’s most iconic structures and has two main observation decks at 90 meters (the indoor Sky Deck) and 100 meters (the outdoor Sky Balcony). Both decks provide 360 degrees view of Sakae including Oasis 21, Sunshine Sakae and the Nagoya cityscape. While the tower ceased to transmit TV signals in 2011, it remains a popular tourist destination part in thanks to its nightly illuminations.

Higashiyama Sky Tower

As part of the sprawling Higashiyama Zoo and Botanical Gardens complex, the Higashiyama Sky Tower dominates the landscape in the west of the city. The building itself is 134m tall and sits atop a hill in the centre of the grounds meaning that its its observation deck and restaurant at 100m commands an amazing view of the park, the western part of Nagoya as well as Mt. Ontake, Mt. Ibuki and the Central Alps mountain range,

Nagoya Port Building Observatory

The only word to describe the Nagoya Port Building Observatory is, well, ‘interesting’. It really has to be seen to be understood. However, despite its unorthodox structure and the fact that its observation deck is relatively low at 53m, the view is well worth the trip out to the south of the city. The whole port area has been redeveloped and you are afforded sites of the city – beautiful when lit at night – as well as right out to sea. After taking in the view you can check out the Nagoya marine museum (Nagoya Kaiyo Hakubutsukan) on the 3rd floor.

Chubu Centrair Flight Deck

The Chubu Centrair Flight Deck is very much unlike the other aforementioned observation decks. While it is nowhere as high as the city decks, this is a 300m long observation deck at Chubu Centrair International airport, and rather than gaze down on the streets below you are afforded the opportunity to marvel as the planes take off a mere 300m away. On clear days it is possible to see shoreline of Mie prefecture, ships sailing to and from the Nagoya Port and at dusk the sunset beyond Ise Bay.


By Mark Guthrie


Image by Christoph Rupprecht (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via (modified)

ByMark Guthrie
Jul 26, 2017

Must See Shrines and Temples of Nagoya

Japan is served by two predominant religions: Shinto and Buddhism. Shinto is a form of ancestor worship and is the traditional religion of Japan – though it was codified in the eighth century it had been around for many centuries before with evidence that it was around during the pre-historical Jōmon period – with many Gods, or ‘kami’, housed in shrines around the country.

Buddhism came to Japan around the 6th century (though it is possible that it had been introduced some two hundred years before) and grew side by side with Shintoism. Today many Japanese worship both religions, with it being said that Japanese are born in Shintoism, and die in Buddhism, with the latter having the advantage of a belief in reincarnation over the former. (Recently this phrase has been modified to add that Japanese are also married in Christianity, reflecting the propensity for young people to wed in Christian-style ‘churches’.)

For many centuries, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples co-existed on the same grounds, one standing shoulder-to-shoulder with the other. However, during the Meiji era (1968-1912), a period of great upheaval in Japanese society as the country transformed from samurai rule to become an industrial super power, a decree was passed that these houses of worship must become either one or the other, leading to many shrines and temples to be destroyed.

However, there are still many fantastic shrines and temples to be found within the city of Nagoya. Here are a few of our favorites.

Atsuta Jingu

Atsuta Jingu ranks in importance second only to the Great Shrine of Ise in Mie (the center of the Shinto religion in Japan) and draws over 9 million visitors a year to its gates. The shrine, located in Atsuta Ward of Nagoya City, dates back nearly 2,000 years, and is dedicated to the “Five Great Gods of Atsuta”, who are connected with the sacred sword Kusanagi no Tsurugi, or “The Grass Cutting Sword”.

The sword is one of the Three Imperial Regalia of Japan.  According to the 8th Century compiled kojiki, Chronicle of old things, the oldest extant chronicle of Japan, the god, Susanoo found the sword in the tail of an eight headed dragon he had slain. The sword was later presented to the goddess Amaterasu, and later presented to the warrior Yamato Takeru, who used it’s magical powers to cut his way out of a grass fire started by a treacherous enemy warlord, hence it’s moniker.

Osu Kannon

When getting off at the Ōsu Kannon subway station on the Tsuramai line, it is difficult to miss the large Buddhist temple from which the station takes its name. The original temple was built in 1333, though to save it from regular flooding the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu had it moved from where it had stood in Ōsu-gō, Nagaoka village, (now known as Hashima in Gifu Prefecture) to its position today. Unfortunately this did not protect it from the devastation it suffered following a large fire in the 1820s, and the attacks on Nagoya during World War 2. It was rebuilt in the 1970s, which is what we can see today, but this does not detract anything from its beauty.

Fortunately the wooden statue carved in the eighth century by the famous monk Kōbō- Daishi of the temple’s deity the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, Kannon in Japanese, survived these disasters and looks over the temple and its worshipers to this day. Below the building is a library containing around 15,000 classic items of literature, including the oldest manuscript of the aforementioned Kojiki, the first book on Japanese mythology.

  • Where: Naka Ward, Osu, 2 Chome−21−47 (map)

Nittaiji Temple

The name literally means Japan-Thai temple and was built to represent the harmony between the two nations. It was established in 1904 to enshrine Buddha’s ashes and a gilt bronze gifted by the king of Thailand in 1900, and is the only temple in Japan that does not represent a single sect of Buddhism as it was built following the agreement of the representatives of all the Buddhist sects.

The holy remains are enshrined in a 15m Gandhara style tower, a Hoanto, built in 1918. Since then the temple grounds have grown to include a large Dharma hall as well as a five story pagoda. You will also find a street fair in the area on the 21st of each month.

  • Where: Chikusa Ward, Shiroyamashinmachi, 1 Chome−1 (map)

Toyokuni Jinja

Toyokuni Jinja is a Shinto shrine that was built to enshrine the Samurai leader and ‘second great unifier’ of the country, Toyotomi Hideyoshi. It is one of a series of shrines that commemorate the great man, with the main one in Kyoto where Toyotomi’s remains are interned. Also known as Hōkoku Shrine, the Nagoya shrine was built in Nakamura Park, the area in which Toyotomi is said to have been born.

A peaceful shrine, befitting that of a man who attempted to unify the nation and bring the warring period to an end, there are ponds, traditional bridges and sun-dappled paths amongst the grounds. And it is not just Toyotomi who is enshrined there, but also one of his most famed allies, Kato Kiyomasa, who was also born in present day Nakamura ward.

Koshoji Temple

Koshoji was founded by the monk Tenzui in the 17th century and was long connected with the Owari branch of the Tokugawa family. The stand out structure, a 30m-tall, five story wooden pagoda, was built in 1808 and is the only wooden pagoda of its kind in the Tokai region. The main hall is older, dating from 1750 and enshrines an image of Amida Nyorai, the Buddha of the Afterlife, as well as a shrine where believers can pray for ‘pokkuri’, or painless death.

Within the grounds is a beautiful raked stone Japanese garden (admission fee 500 JPY) and no trip is complete without taking part in a Japanese tea ceremony in the 300 year-old tea house. Also of interest is a 3.6m, 20 ton bronze image of Dainichi Nyorai (Vairocana) dating from 1679 at the rear of the temple.

Differences between Shrines and Temples

In much the same way as a church is not the same as a synagogue, shrines and temples are not interchangeable terms for the same thing. Shrines (‘jinja’ 神社)  are places of worship for Japanese Shintoism, whereas a temple (‘otera’ お寺) is for Buddhism.

For a more in-depth look into the differences and similarities, check out what The Japan Guy website has to say on the matter. Below is his simple break down.

Screen Shot 2016-04-25 at 16.21.38


By Mark Guthrie


Image by Laura Tomàs Avellana (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via (modified)

Image by Laura Tomàs Avellana (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via (modified)

Image by drufisher (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via (modified)

Image by Hideki Yoshida (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via (modified)

Image by Yevgen Pogoryelov (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via (modified)

Image by – Screengrab (modified)

Jul 26, 2017

The World Friendship Centre: Peace and Friendship in Hiroshima

Hiroshima is the kind of place that you cannot visit or live in without being influenced by its history and peace-related message. As August is the month of the anniversary of the bombing of Hiroshima, it is also the perfect time to find out more about and/or get involved in peace organisations and activities within the city.

One such organisation that I discovered before even stepping foot on Hiroshima soil was the World Friendship Centre.

Often labelled as a ‘home away from home,’ I found the Centre whilst researching places to stay before moving into my apartment. I wanted somewhere cosy yet close to downtown and also somewhere that was okay with me staying long-term (I stayed for a month). Google led me right to it.

Not only is the World Friendship Centre a place that offers cheap, comfortable and convenient accommodation to travellers, but it also provides a wealth of other activities and opportunities for those who are interested in learning about peace and the history of Hiroshima.

For those living here, we often have trouble finding space to fit all our relatives and friends when they come to stay and the Centre is a God-send in that respect. It’s one of the few places that also provides breakfast in the price and believe me when I say you will not be hungry afterwards.

If you want a life-changing experience, book one of their hibakusha (A-bomb survivor) stories where you can learn firsthand what it was like to be in Hiroshima on the day the bomb was dropped. In years to come there won’t be anyone left who survived, so this truly is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that should not be missed. Although it’s usually guests of the Centre who book these, if you ring and let the staff know how keen you are to meet a survivor and hear their story, they are usually more than happy to accommodate your request.

The Centre is run by a team of dedicated volunteers and was founded by in 1965 by a woman named Barbara Reynolds who wanted to provide a place where people from all over the world could meet to talk about peace.

The staff also conduct Peace Park tours and have English lessons nearly every single day of the week. Once a month on a Saturday they have a ‘Fun in English,’ program where people from different parts of the world share their story with an activity such as cooking included as part of the afternoon.

For me, perhaps the best thing about the Centre was that it got me involved in an organisation that not only promotes peace and is thus, vital to Hiroshima, but also gave me the opportunity to meet new people. Without them I wouldn’t have had such a smooth transition into my life here. Expats know that making friends can be daunting in a new place and that you do need to put yourself out there and make the effort to establish contacts and friendships. If you are interested in more information, check out their website below for my details.

The World Friendship Centre

Photo by (used without permission) modified

Jul 26, 2017

Keep c(K)ool and Kampai! Beer Gardens in Hiroshima

When rainy season finally ends and the nights are hot and steamy, there is nothing better to do on a summer’s night than to sit outside. If you combine this with the great company of your friends, good food and drinks aplenty, you are guaranteed to make some wonderful summer memories.

Luckily, Hiroshima has all of the above in one convenient location. Where am I talking about? Beer gardens!

Yes, beer gardens are perhaps one of the key symbols of summer and can be found in every major city in Japan. Hiroshima is no exception, with each one advertising their beer of choice and food and drink deals to ensure you have a great night out.

Most of them are located downtown or around Hiroshima Station and have rooftop locations for a fantastic view over the city. Some are more upmarket than others, but prices are fairly similar no matter what. It’s standard to have plastic chairs and tables so don’t expect anything too fancy. Remember, it’s a beer garden!

Unfortunately, no matter where you go, the price for women is always cheaper than men. Ladies, that’s great news for you, but a little unfair for all the men out there. School-age children are about half the price of adults and under elementary age kids are free.

Hotel Granvia right in front of Hiroshima Station on the north side is very popular and has a fantastic view over the city. The all-you-can-eat and drink is buffet style and features predominately Italian and other Mediterranean-style food. Open from 5.30pm-10pm, it can get mighty busy and reservations are recommended. Men are 3600 yen and women 3400 with Sapporo and Ebisu the two beers on tap.

Also located near Hiroshima Station is the Fukuya Ekimae Panorama Beer Garden. It’s not as fancy as Hotel Granvia and the food definitely has more emphasis on the easy-to-cook-and-serve (I’m talking the fried variety here), but the view is a definite winner and it’s more open.

If it does rain, there’s also a lot more seating available (500 in fact) than Hotel Granvia where my friends and I spent the night huddled into a very cramped and hot space with the rest of the people sheltering from the rain. Asahi is the beer on tap and prices are much cheaper with men at 3000 yen and 2700 for women. Ladies, if you go on a Tuesday it’s only 2300 yen and for everyone on a Carp game day you can get 200 yen off. Best of all, it’s open from 5pm-10pm giving you that whole extra half hour to drink… I mean, eat.

Fukuya Hacchobori located in downtown Hiroshima also serves Asahi beer and prices and hours are the same as the Fukuya at Hiroshima Station. If ‘Viking’ style buffet courses aren’t your thing, why not pay a little extra (3300 yen for men and 3000 yen for women) and enjoy a BBQ course instead. Oh, and women also get a 200 yen discount on both Monday AND Tuesday each week. The rooftop is large and open and the sunset from the top here is worth the money alone.

The nearby Mitsukoshi Beer Garden is also extremely popular due to its Ebisu and Sapporo Beer on tap and the combination of both Mediterranean food and Japanese teppan dishes. Men are 3100 yen and women 2900 and opening hours are between 5.30pm-10pm.

Last of all, if you’re looking for something a little different, why not head to the SOGO Beer Garden where every night they have 100 Kirin Frozen drafts on offer. If you miss out on them, don’t worry, as there’s still plenty of Kirin to down. Men are 3000 yen and women 2800, but if you arrive before 6pm during the week, women only pay 2500.

This list is by no means exclusive; there are a number more, but these are the most popular ones. Check out one or all of them and make up your own mind which is your favourite.

Keep c(k)ool and kampai!


Photo: “Asahi Beer” by Dave (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Jul 26, 2017

Ice, Ice, Baby… The best Ice Cream in Hiroshima

With the sun beating down and the humidity at almost 100%, summer in Hiroshima can be almost unbearable for those who live here. Many people find that they don’t feel like eating and with their energy levels at a low, all they can try to do is keep cool. Luckily though, Hiroshima has plenty of places that serve a food that will not only make you shiver with excitement (and cold), but one that is usually packed full of sugar for an instant energy boost.

Yep, I’m talking about ice cream.

Perhaps the most famous ice cream shop in Hiroshima, not only due to its downtown location, but for the sheer size of its ice cream, is Polar Bear. I’m talking mammoth sized (not polar bear sized!) ice cream, which can be served in either a cone or a cup. A single serve is more than enough, but if you want two flavours and a double cone, it’s a popular choice for couples or those who want to share.

The number one flavour is the green tea and if you don’t go early, it tends to run out by early to mid-afternoon. The mango deserves an honourable mention. There is limited seating inside and you will often find large groups outside clustered around the store front, trying desperately to eat their ice cream before it melts. It’s definitely a challenge during the hotter months! Polar Bear is a must-try at least once, but be warned… the line is often very long, extending not only down the street, but also around the corner. Be prepared to wait.

My place of choice, however, is Milkissimo, located in the Roji Dining Food Court in the big Aeon shopping mall in Fuchu. This place actually serves gelato which is less fatty than ice cream because it uses whole milk, rather than cream. Generally, it’s also lighter, smoother and softer than ice cream too. The sheer range of flavours alone is enough to attract even the hardest-to-please and again, you can choose from a cone or a cup, with up to three flavours available per person.

Best of all, apart from the all-year-round flavours, seasonal ones are also available. Summertime is perfect for fruity options and there are plenty to choose from including pineapple, mango, assai banana and passion fruit, with a sorbet-like consistency that is light and fluffy and not so heavy for when you’re already feeling weighed down by the heat.

There are plenty of other places to explore and to find ice cream and gelato in Hiroshima; these are just two of the best. Of course, if ice cream isn’t your thing, there’s also the option of かき氷 (kakigouri) or shaved ice, with flavours such as green tea, strawberry and lemon. Whatever you do, just remember to keep cool this summer with lots of ice, ice cream, baby!

The Best Ice Cream in Hiroshima

Polar Bear

Located just off Hondori, with the closest streetcar stop being Tatemachi.
Open every day 12pm-8pm
730-0032 Hiroshima Prefecture, Hiroshima, Naka Ward, Tatemachi, 5−2 キャッスル立町 (map link)


Located in Aeon Mall, Fuchu in the Roji Dining Food Court 1F. Closest train station is Tenjingawa.
Open every day 10am- 10pm
Aeon Mall, Fuchu 2 Chome-1-1 Ōsu, Fuchū-chō, Aki-gun, Hiroshima-ken 735-0021 (map link)

Photo by Kristen Taylor ( [CC BY 2.0 or CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

ByRay Proper
Jul 26, 2017

Asakusa Samba Carnival in Tokyo

If you are looking for a lively and colorful way to draw your summer to a close there is probably not better option than the annual Asakusa Samba Carnival.  This carnival is the largest Samba dance related event in Japan, and it draws crowds of over 500,000 to view the spectacle of samba dance teams from throughout Japan in colorful and elaborate costumes and the team’s float’s parading through Akasuka in the summer’s waning heat.

Teams from throughout Japan, and some from Brazil have been dancing the samba in front of one of  Sensoji Temple, since 1981.  The color and vibrancy of the Latin Dance and themed floats contrasts nicely with the more reserved and traditional setting of  one of Tokyo’s oldest and most revered temples to create an incredible experience of sight and sound that is not to be missed.

Asakusa Samba Carnival 2017

When you are done why not pop in for some Brazilian Food to round out the experience?

ByJustin Hanus
Jul 24, 2017

Meet Kobe’s Sister City – Seattle, Washington

The idea of international “sister cities” began in 1947 as a way to promote friendship and cross-cultural understanding after World War II. There was also an economic component to the concept to encourage trade and tourism. In the 1980s the Japanese government created the Council of Local Authorities for International Relations to encourage the development of sister cities.

By that time Kobe was a veteran hand at forging these civic familial relationships. In 1957 Kobe made its first such bond with Seattle, Washington in the United States. The matchmaker was an American named Clifton B. Foster who proposed the idea to the Kobe Public Relations Office. The Kobe mayor contacted the Seattle mayor and an official ceremony was held in Kobe on October 21, 1957 to welcome a delegation from Seattle and launch the partnership.

It was the first official sister city for Seattle, which now has 21 sister cities, as well. This year marks the 60th anniversary of the relationship and contingents of Seattle officials will be much in evidence around Kobe this summer. And vice versa in the United States.

What Do Sister Cities Do?

Over the decades the two cities have organized many cultural exchanges and events co-ordinated by the Seattle-Kobe Sister City Association. Gifts from the people of Kobe have created the Kobe Terrace Park in Seattle’s International District with Japanese pine and cherry trees shading a stone lantern. In 1975 the Kobe Municipal Arboretum opened a “Seattle Forest” section with 40 species of trees common to the American Northwest.

Other gifts from Seattle to Kobe include totem poles outside Kobe City Hall, the Oji Zoo, and the Municipal Arboretum; gas lamps at City Hall and in Meriken Park; the Rock of Peace on Port Island; and a bronze statue of an otter named “Prince Williams” in the Suma Aqualife Park. When you see porcupines and bobcats at the zoo, they are creatures from the Kobe-Seattle alliance. Similarly, the ancient sturgeon fish and otters at the Aqualife Park are courtesy of Seattle. The rhododendrons that bloom each summer in the Kobe Municipal Arboretum are specimens donated by Seattle.

The sister city relationship between Kobe and Seattle has spilled over into the institutions of the two port cities. The Port of Kobe and the Port of Seattle have enjoyed a formal relationship for 50 years. The Seattle YMCA and Kobe YMCA have engaged in a partnership even longer. The Seattle Yacht Club and Suma Yacht Club have had maritime exchanges since 1981.

One of the highlights of this six-decade alliance is the Jazz Exchange Program. Every year the winner of the Kobe Jazz Vocalist Queen Contest travels to Seattle to entertain at Dimitriou’s Jazz Alley. The competition is staged in Kobe’s Shinkaichi neighborhood, the birthplace of Japanese jazz. In the fall two Seattle musicians, one adult and one student cross the Pacific to show off their chops at the Shikaichi Music Street Jazz Vocalist Queen Contest.

Today Kobe now has sister cities on four other continents: Marseille, France, Riga, Latvia, and Barcelona, Spain in Europe; Brisbane in Australia; Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in South America; and Incheon, South Korea in Asia.

Photo by Rattlhed at English Wikipedia (Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons.) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

ByJustin Hanus
Jul 24, 2017

The Singular Summer Pleasures of Kawadoko Dining

There has always been something seductive about waterfalls. There is the metronomic sound of the water tumbling into basin pools and the mesmerizing sluices of water cascading down rock cliffs. Architect Frank Lloyd Wright built one of his most famous houses atop a waterfall in the woods of Pennsylvania. So why not combine one of people’s favorite things – waterfalls – with another favorite thing – eating?

There is a restaurant in the Philippines at the base of a spillway where diners can enjoy a casual meal with water flowing under their feet and being splashed by pounding water. Japan does not go that far but you can find many Kawadoko restaurants in Kyoto, a region well-lubricated by rivers, including one that serves meals atop an entrancing hydro-spectacular.

Kawadoko means “place at the river” and Kyoto’s Kamo River is the summer capital of waterside dining. The Kamo spills out of Mount Sajikigatake on its way to joining the Yodo River and continuing to Osaka. Outside of the rainy season it is a benign water course that can be walked across on stepping stones in some places.

A Restaurant Row Unique in Japan

But most of the walking is done on pathways carved on the riverbanks of the Kamo. Those banks are lined with restaurants and bars, many dozens of them. The weather heats up in Kyoto in the summer and the dining establishments build large wooden platforms where diners can eat and drink in the cool of the water’s edge. The proprietors are said to have begun this practice in the early days of the Edo period in the early 1600s and the tradition has survived to become one of Kyoto’s signature tourist attractions, known as Kamogawa Noryo-yuka.

Although there are individual variations among the more than 100 Kyoto restaurants taking part in Noryo Yuka, most adhere to the accepted rules of the game. The decks are open from May 1st until September 30th and food is served outdoors only during daylight hours. If it rains, and in evenings, serving takes place indoors.

Diners can choose among restaurants that offer Western style tables and chairs or traditional low tables where kneeling is necessary. Most of the decks are narrow affairs extending towards the water so patrons will be eating in close quarters. In such cases it is appropriate to consume the food mindfully without making noise or imposing on a neighbor. The playing of musical instruments or singing on the decks is forbidden. Anyone can dine on the decks but the popularity of Noryo Yuka usually demands an advance booking. Do not make such choices lightly as canceling a reserved table on the appointed day of the meal is considered poor manners.

Kawadoko Dining Beyond the Kamo River

Kawadoko is not confined to the Kamo River. Kibune is a picturesque mountain village northeast of the city. The higher elevations and energetic waters of the Kibune River deliver a double dose of relief from the hot and humid Kyoto days. The Hirobun erects its wooden decks directly above cascading waterfalls. A thatched roof, paper lanterns, tatami mats and low slung wooden tables complete the kawadoko experience.

Takao is a small village tucked into a forested mountain valley one hour north of Kyoto by bus. Its Kozanji Temple lays claim to starting tea cultivation in Japan. The Kawadoko in this natural setting takes place along the Kiyotaki River.

By 663highland (Own work) [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

ByJustin Hanus
Jul 24, 2017

No One Does Beer Gardens Like Japan

It’s summer. It’s hot. And for many that means only one thing – beer gardens. The summertime treat, however, does not have its origins in cold brews quenching parched summer thirsts.

Five hundred years ago in Bavaria the brewing of beer was legal only between the feast of St. Michael on September 29 and feast of St. George on April 23. It was not a religion thing but a prohibition born out of practicality. Authorities were concerned that the heat from brewers’ coal-fired kettles could catch fire in the dry summer conditions and burn down their towns. Besides that, the discerning Bavarian taste buds knew that lagers fermented at temperatures no greater than 55 degrees Fahrenheit produced the best ales.

What to do? Drinking no beer in the summer was not an option. Brewers tunneled deep into the ground – 15, 20, 25 meters deep – to create storage cellars. To keep beer brewed in the winter cold, ice was packed on top. To further protect the precious brews, trees were planted over the underground cellars to provide shade to keep the sun from heating the earth. In the summer the brewers set up tables and dispensed the beer directly to customers in these sylvan paradises.

Local innkeepers were not happy with this competition and in 1812 King Maximilian forbid brewers to sell any food beyond bread with their beer. Instead, patrons brought their own food to the beer and the beer garden was born. By the late 1800s, beer gardens were popular in Japan as well. They remain an anticipated summer highlight across the nation today as restaurant and department store rooftops, parks, and hotels transform into beer gardens.

Beer Gardens, Japanese Style

With many foreign traditions, Japan borrows and then puts on its own spin. Beer gardens are no different. Long tables and communal imbibing proliferate as they do elsewhere but a Japanese beer garden is a feast unto itself. Western beer gardens typically charge by the glass and usually at the same rate as the indoor tap. Where’s the celebration in that? A Japanese beer garden usually charges one flat rate.

The key words are “tabehodai” and “nomihodai” – all you can eat and all you drink. And the food found at a Japanese beer garden is not the typical pub fare only meant to stir your thirst. The peanuts and pretzels are swapped out for entree-style menu items – seafood, sushi, grilled chicken, fried rice and so on. Now that is a summer treat.

The Kansai region abounds in summer beer gardens at many price points. Shop around as some have no time constraints for the all-you-can-eat-and-drink festivities and others have bookings for 90-minutes or two hours. Japanese beer gardens vary greatly in size, from just a few dozen patrons to many hundreds at some of the large hotels. Some are self-service and others offer table service. Check for the different themes brewed up for the beer garden – Mexican, Tahitian, Hawaiian and other exotic locales are popular; some feature live entertainment. Many special events are also held where advance reservations will be required. The pours at Japanese beer gardens stop in late September and early October so now is the time to grab hold of a frosty mug. Cheers.

By H.L.I.T. (Sapporo Bier Garten) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons